Khayelitsha Township – South Africa
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In September of 2007 I had the good fortune to assist my friend Steve Simon on a shoot in South Africa. Last year, Steve published an exceptional book on AIDS in Africa, and this year he wanted to return to Africa to photograph grandmothers. In addition to its other troubles, Africa has been ravaged by AIDS, resulting in the loss of entire generations. It very often, then, falls to the gransmothers in the community to raise the children and maintain the social structure. |
Through the Stephen Lewis Foundation, Steve hooked us up with an amazing South African NGO called GAPA – Grandmothers Against Poverty and AIDS. Located in the township of Khayelitsha, outside of Cape Town, GAPA offers counseling to grandmothers, as well as job training, seminars, childcare, and more.
GAPA’s facility in Khayelitsha, South Africa
In addition to providing aid to grandmothers, the grandmothers – through GAPA – facilitate after school programs for children. Since many of these kids have lost their parents – and are being raised by grandparents – the GAPA program provides a safe place for them to go after school.
Crime is rampant in South Africa’s townships, so after-school programs like these create a safe haven, as well as a place where kids can get help with homework, learn skills, and work together.
Thanks to GAPA, Steve and I were given access to a number of grandmothers who are involved in GAPA. Such open and ready access allowed us to get a look inside the homes of a few of the estimated 500,000 to one million people who live in Khayelitsha.
While the overall impression of Khayelitsha is of a giant, sprawling shanty town, there are different economic strata within the township. At the lowest level are the illegal squatters who live in completely improvised shacks. Up from that are legal residents who live in structures that are not much better than the improvised dwellings – tin shacks on wood frames with no insulation or running water, but often electricity.
Further up the strata are cinder block buildings in various states of completion and repair, but with running water and electricity.
While it’s easy to see the physical hardship of the place, what’s not so obvious is the ever-present background radiation of tremendous grief. Some of the grandmothers we talked to had lost five or six children – and a few grandchildren – to AIDS. They now find themselves grieving their losses, while trying to raise the grandkids who are left behind, who have their own issues with loss.
It’s difficult not to be overwhelmed by the enormity of a problem the size of Khaylitsha’s, but after a week of working with the grandmothers there, I can say with certainty that there is hope. These indefatigable women are tough-as-nails, and they are working hard, and intelligently, at improving the lot of people within townships all over South Africa.
GAPA is also proof that NGOs work. An organization such as GAPA costs very little by Western standards, yet it is obviously yielding results. The "question" of Africa is one of money, and while decades of funneling money through government has done little to improve conditions, NGOs like GAPA show real promise.
South Africa is a beautiful country, and well worth a visit, and you’ll be hard-pressed to find a friendlier, more welcoming people, especially in the townships. If you’d like to consider visiting Khaylitsha, I heartily recommend the Kopanong Bed and Breakfast (kopanong at xsinet.co.za).
View the Khayelitsha 2007 Gallery
Comments
4 Comments on Khayelitsha Township – South Africa
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Michael D. Rubin, Nikon Inc. on
Thu, 20th Dec 2007 11:24 am
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Dan David on
Thu, 29th Jan 2009 12:53 pm
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Ben Long on
Mon, 2nd Feb 2009 8:33 pm
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Azola Mzamo on
Mon, 2nd Mar 2009 7:26 am
Ah my favorite place on earth.
Thank G-d they are taking care-albeit so late and so slowly-of the AIDS/HIV crisis.
The number of orphans and of families shattered by AIDS & HIV in South Africa alone is staggering.
The embarrassment of speaking about it made it it taboo and people were dying. Unfortunately it too the death of Madiba’s own son (Nelson Mandela is Madiba) to even get him to speak about it and get the world involved.
Happy Holidays to one and all,
Michael D. Rubin
Nikon Inc.
mrubin (at) nikon (dot) net
I was working with an SABC crew north of Ladysmith in the days before and immediately following the second national elections. The video cameraman drove us to Uqutu and pointed to a large house on a hilltop overlooking the township. He said the man who owned that big house was a healer, who took money and other payments to cure AIDS.
Nine of ten people in the township had been diagnosed with the AIDS virus, he said. The government had its head in the sand. No one was talking about AIDS. The “healer” raked in money from poor people desperate for a cure. “Soon,” the cameraman said, “there will be nothing but old people and the very young left here.”
He was right.
Good work. Beautiful pictures. Thanks for the memories.
Thanks for the story, Dan, that’s truly a tragic anecdote, like so many that come from Africa. I was just back last December, and will be posting more images soon. Thanks again — ben
AHH…..Thanx And well done for everything you doing to improve KHAYELITSHA…….I was born and raised in those dusty streets myself and I know that one day I will make a difference KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK……..
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